Ian McNulty on a pie joint where the specialty is deep-dish

"The crew here has devised some original pies � like the Natty E, with chicken, bacon and streaks of creamy, brightly-flavored Green Goddess dressing, and the Latin-inspired FD Squared, with chorizo, chiles and crumbly cojita cheese. Caramelized onions and Gorgonzola are as gourmet as the roster of toppings gets, but this kitchen does a lot with the basics. The meatballs � springy, moist, deeply flavorful � are a particular glory. Forget ground or even sliced meatball toppings you've seen elsewhere. With their sturdy crusts, these pizzas can swaddle whole meatballs, which sit on the surface like they were shot from a cannon onto a round cheese target."

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